Special: How to make a homemade wifi antenna

Note: If you have come here looking to amplify the signal you receive from wifi, I recommend that you look at the high gain wifi antenna that we have in our shop at an unbeatable price.

Second special that we prepare in How to doThe first one was the metal detector, and now the oldest followers of this blog will remember the one about the metal detector. tutorial of how to increase the signal of our wifi antenna or how to get passwords from wifi networksNow it's the turn of one that could not be missing from the collection of curious inventions of this blog, I bring you here a compilation of homemade wifi antennas that I have seen on the Internet, all explained step by step and without complications.

The most interesting of them all (in my opinion) I'll show you the complete one, the rest I'll leave you to visit them in their respective places of origin. Well, let's start, I introduce you to the mother of all wifi antennas, surely many of you have heard of the wifi antenna with a Pringles canThe report is, in great detail.

Click after the jump to continue with the manual.

1.- Materials:

Overview of the invention

- 1 threaded rod 140 mm long and 3 mm thick. (Buy it in hardware store)

- 2 fixing nuts of 3 mm. (Buy it in hardware store)

- 5 washers of 30 mm overall diameter and 3 mm centre diameter. (To be purchased at a hardware store)

- 4 hollow metal tubes, 30 mm long and at least 3 mm inside diameter. (Buy it in hardware store)

- 1 SMA Female - SMA Female connector. (We have it in our shop)

- 1 SMA male connector. (We have it in our shop)

- 1 Reverse SMA male connector (RP-SMA). (We have it in our shop)

- 1 needle. (Buy it in hardware store)

- 1 metre of RG58 coaxial cable. (We have it in our shop)

- Can of Pringles potato chips (the long kind). (Buy it in a supermarket)

- 2 caps of Pringles potato crisps. (Buy it in supermarket)

2.- Tools:


- Rule. (Buy it on Amazon)

- Scissors. (Buy it on Amazon)

- Pipe cutter. (Buy it on Amazon)

- Metal saw. (Buy it on Amazon)

- Punch. (Buy it on Amazon)

- Cutter. (Buy it on Amazon)

- Tip soldering iron. (Buy it on Amazon)

- Hot Silicone Gun. (Buy it on Amazon)

- BNC Crimper. (Buy it on Amazon)

3.- Assembly procedures:

3.1.- Firstly, cut the tube into 4 pieces of 30 mm. long each one (if you already bought them cut, skip this point). After the threaded rod in 140 mm long, we would have the perfect sum (with a few mm of margin of error), taking into account that the washers, nuts and plastic caps are respectively 1.6 mm, 2 mm and 0.5 mm long. In the second picture we can see very well explained the position of the parts on the threaded rod.

4 tubes of 30 mm each.

Position scheme.

Note: Of course, to be able to mount the plastic covers, we must drill a few holes of the same diameter as the threaded rod (3 mm), and insert them in the position indicated in the diagram above, also note that the second plastic cap (the one in the centre of the diagram) should be cut the edges The purpose of this is to have the same diameter as the inside of the Pringles can, this is only so that the antenna does not move inside and to keep it well centred. Remember also that when you have finished the assembly of the diagram, you must tighten the turks well of the extremes, to avoid unnecessary misalignment.

After all this, the result would be something like this:

Result of the antenna inside

3.2.- Now we'll start modifying the can itself, clean it without water (as you might undo it), and make a hole at 80 mm from the bottom of the can to place the receiver there. The hole must be a perfect match with the SMA Female - SMA Female connectorso be very careful with this. Anyway, if you find that it doesn't fit very well, you can always fix it with a bit of silicone or a couple of threads for the connector.

Inside of the can

When we have checked that everything fits, we take out the connector to prepare it. We take the needle that we had prepared and we cut off both ends (we can also use a copper wire of the same length), place it in the connector, ensuring that it makes contact with the central wire and no with the edges of it, and then we set it by filling the inside of the connector with silicone. Remember at the end that we must check continuity between one end of the cable and the other and that there is no short circuit between the two poles of the cable, this can be done easily and quickly with the multimeter.

Result of the spike

Note: Once finished and placed inside the can, we must check that the spike does not exceed half of the can's diameterThis will result in a loss of signal (this can be easily adjusted with the nuts that hold the connector or by cutting the pin a little). After this, we can place the collector inside the canchecking not to touch the earbut close by.

3.3.- (This part can be omitted, if we buy the cable already made) Now we will make a mess with the PigTail (basically it is the cable that goes from the antenna to the wifi card), we will use the RG58 coaxial cable, which has a loss of 81 dB per 100m.

To begin with, we peel off the two ends of the cableIf necessary, the two poles can be placed together, taking great care not to touch each other, as shown in the image. welding the central wire of the cable for better conductivity.


We will then be able to insert the cable into the connectorby placing well the pin in the very heart of it. We cut the mesh The connector is then crimped with a small amount of excess so that it does not make contact with anything after the connector has been crimped, and finally, crimp the connector to fix it firmly in place. Repeat this process with the another end of the cable and we will get this result:

Cable result

Now all that remains for us to do is to plug it all in and test the results. If you don't have the connector that goes on the Wifi card, you can always buy a new one. adapterThere are all kinds of them. If you have a laptop and you don't know how to connect this antenna, I recommend you to go through this tutorial that explains it very well.

And as you know, if you have any doubts, come to the forum and I will answer you as soon as possible. I also leave you the pdf manual made by How to do.

If you have found it too complicated you can buy the high gain Wifi antenna that we have in our shop and see if you can find a professional antenna that you like.

4.- Collection of Wifi antennas:

As I promised, now I am going to show you a compilation of antennas that I found on the web, which are not as interesting as the one explained above, but they deserve a mention:

Tarterantenna (12 dBi power).


Helical wifi antenna.

Helical antenna.

Helical wifi antenna 2 (English).

Helical antenna 2

Yagi Loop wifi antenna (15 dBi power).

Yagi Loop

Biquad wifi antenna + satellite dish (English).

Biquad Antenna

Biquad wifi antenna with CD.

Biquad antenna with CD.

Omnidirectional wifi antenna.

Omnidirectional antenna.

Omnidirectional wifi antenna 2.

Omnidirectional antenna 2.

Wifi antenna with Bic pen.

Antenna with Bic pen.

Slotted wifi antenna.

Slotted antenna.

Chapex wifi antenna (40dBi power).

Chapex antenna.

Too difficult, you can always buy our high gain Wifi antenna.

Now it's your turn, if you have, or have seen, a wifi antenna manual that I haven't put, just comment it in the comments, and if you want to show me how your antenna turned out, also, greetings and I leave you with one of my sketches, hehe.

Own sketch

250 thoughts on “Especial: Cómo hacer una antena wifi casera”

  1. Amigo vivo en sona rural q antenna me puede servir para wifi el servidor esta a kilometro y medio de mi casa y no tengo linia de vista con el servidor y mi casa esta en un poso practicamente.

  2. I need a long range antenna I live in a rural area and the internet goes to the school and I want to get the wifi signal in my house but it doesn't reach me I live about a mile from the school and my house is on a hill and I have no line of sight to the school where the modem is.

  3. Hello everybody, I am EA8NV member of the group "Cacharreantes Oficiales de Tenerife" (CQ magazine in Spanish March 1995.... and yes!... since then it rained a little bit hahahaha the one in the first picture of the magazine article is this your sure servant ) this group some years ago (1995) we beat the world record of transmission in UHF TV (Obviously in amateur band) linking from Tenerife Island (Canary Islands).... archipelago situated about two hundred kilometres off the north-west coast of Africa with the city of Seville, south of mainland Spain and practically the extreme south of Europe (Canary Islands is also Spain but overseas and insular) to give you an idea of the distance that separates us from Seville the flight from Tenerife to Seville is 3 hours by plane Jet.. in other words, more than 3000 km in a straight line... We are currently experimenting in the 1200 Mhz band. and we have come to the conclusion that the best cable to use for these frequencies with reduced power (with a Kilowatt we would set fire to the cable hehehe) is not a cable for transmission (approved by the US Navy) but a simple double shielded TV cable (very cheap in the specialized trade and even in hardware stores)... is the one that has given us less loss with our directional antennas of "rings" designed and constructed in the group... obviously you will have to adapt the F type connector that we use (because it is the one that best respects the impedance of the TV cable and therefore the insertion losses are practically null) to the SMA connection of the normal wifi cards (mine for example is a TP-Link TL-WN751ND with a bandwidth of 150 Mbps)... because the losses by capacity of the RG58 cable at 1200 Mhz. (They are already quite appreciable in VHF in the 2 meter band) so imagine at 2400 Mhz! If you don't transmit with a minimum of one watt, you're lost! all the signal stays in the cable! .... so my advice... try with a simple double shielded TV cable and an F connector (which, as you know, is a simple sheath for the coaxial shield itself, as it uses the rigid central conductor of the coaxial cable for double shielded TV). shielded ) and of course it is obvious that in this case we will need an adapter from F to SMA (there are some on the market and they are not too expensive) and if not from F to BNC and from BNC to SMA which are also available and are probably easier to find or from F to N ... .... Well... It's up to each one to figure it out!... but the cable... and especially if the Antenna is going to be a bit far from the wifi card ("a bit far" at this frequency is already 4 meters )... Double shielded TV cable... but that without hesitation!... much cheaper and with much less losses ...try it and tell me .... the influence of the difference of impedances from 75 of the TV cable to the 50 of input to the WIFI card with the managed powers... it is practically negligible... if we were managing a Kilowatt (I in HF have 500 watts PEP in antenna hehehe) it would already be question of beginning to speak of "couplers" of impedance... but with the powers that are managed in WIFI .... not even mention it!... at these frequencies the polarization influences much more than a possible (minimum) impedance decoupling... (this effect is already starting to be noticed in the 10 meter band or 28 to 30 Mhz.) if the transmitter polarizes horizontally and your receiving antenna polarizes vertically... you can get to have almost zero reception (in our group of experimenters we have verified it practically)

    A big hug and you know where you have me at ximielga@ximielga.com for anything I can do for you ...
    EA8NV (alias ximielga)

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